My time in Fort Smith Arkansas was another study in contrasts. I left my hotel and walked pass the court house. A singular towering monument honoring ‘Our Confederate Dead’ 1861 – 1865 stood as tall as the substantial building and would greet anyone entering to seek justice. It seems to me to be a uniquely American ability to accept our unreconciled past and keep going. I had (way too much) breakfast at the 5th Street cafe and I stayed (way too long) swapping stories, laughing and even shared a prayer with Karen (member of Crossroads Cowboy Church, yes, Cowboy church), Cynthia (who proudly announced ‘I quit smoking…. I vape now’) and Christie (who drew the absolute best cartoon pig named Mr. Oinkers on my flag). All of which led me to Miss Laura’s Visitor’s Center and Juliana. The women of Fort Smith do not disappoint.