San Jose, CA: Why this picture matters

Sometimes language lets us down. Never more than when we reach to capture the most evocative moments.

Anyone who had followed along these past weeks knows that I am, at once, humbled and honored by the people I have met. Reassuring, heart-warming, surprising and funny, I cannot read through my notebook or listen to the audio without smiling. I have returned home more hopeful and confident in the strength and goodness of our country.

So many people have commented on the insights and engagement of the people interviewed. It was a joy. It was also clear that the opportunity to talk was as welcomed as it was unique. Universally, people confided that they had ceased to discuss politics in their every day life. That the kitchen table and water coolers were not safe venues for the exchange of ideals.

Which leads me to the final, unreported aspect of my travels. Over four years ago, I shared the story that started my 2008 journey. It happened at one of those kitchen tables. The subject was marriage equality and the impact on the family and the country. Homosexuality as choice and biblical references ensued. But the defining moment was when a well educated family member posited, ‘Where does it stop? If men can marry men, then what keeps us from allowing men to marry dogs?’ And there it was. An audible clicking noise in my head. The noise that I would come to recognize meant I was done. Disengaged.

It happened on this trip as well. It was among good people that I knew did not share my views. When asked about my motivation, I was determined to keep it safe and simple. My belief that discourse is good for civil society and essential to democracy. That the act of open discussion encourages a better informed electorate. When challenged, I offered what I thought was a safe explanation. I stated that, many years ago, the belief that our president was a Muslim would only have been held by a fraction on our citizens. I wondered if reluctance to engage in discourse may be at the root of the now 34% of Republicans that believe this to be true. Their response? ‘Obama IS a Muslim’

Clicking noise.

I should be clear. It was not only the statement, but it was the way in which the statement was made. It was a declaration. It was absolute. Mention of a lifetime of photographic history of Obama sitting in churches, dismissed. But most importantly, what was clear was that no discussion was invited or necessary. That the only allowable outcome was my validation.

We have all had these moments. Holidays with the family, outings with friends. The either stunned silence or rapid escalation that follows an incendiary comment designed to stop discourse in its tracks. We are held hostage to appeasement or withdrawal. And worse, it has led us to stop trying. To ensure that we only seek out the like-minded in our relationships and our media.

And so it went. I found a total of eight people who wholehearted believe that our president is a Muslim (or its close cousin, not American). A total of six women who, in rapid succession, volunteered a list of the people (family, friends, and in one case, a hairdresser) who have been excommunicated from their lives for the sins of non-compliance.

We cannot alter behavior that we cannot identify. We need new language. We need a word for a person determined to hold a position in spite of facts to the contrary. A term that defines the ‘no discussion will be permitted’ stance that follows. Since I believe that most people who engage in this behavior are usually suffering from a combination of trauma and being ‘stuck’ in a position, I submit the term ‘trucked’.

We need to teach our children to discuss and debate complex ideas. We need to give them the tools to respectfully present and defend those ideas. To listen and to honor critical thinking in themselves and others. And when confronted with intractable, indefensible positions, to stay engaged and to stand up and call it for what it is. Trucked.

All of us want a government that can work together. Almost everyone that I talked to wanted our leaders to do what we are not doing in our own homes. To listen to each other and find our common good.

Two weeks ago, in Boston with my nephew Bryan and his wife Rana, I enjoyed everything that should be possible in political discourse.  Although we have opposing views, we sat for close to three hours, discussing the most difficult social and polarizing financial issues.  It was good, it was civil.  And, I’d like to think, we all learned a little.

So in the end, what this photo and my travels confirmed for me is that we have a choice.  There is no red America, there is no blue America. We are our best when we come together as people and as statesmen.

We simply have allowed the bullies to take over the bus.

And that is fixable.

Posted in Looking for America | 10 Comments

Salt Lake City, UT: Greyhound state of mind

Confessions are tricky things. More than just the unflattering revelation, the public admission, when done correctly, should inspire concrete change. This is my attempt at both.

I am winding down my second journey through these United States and, both times, I have struggled with my ability to present the unattractive aspects of my experience. Oh, I can tell the cool stories. I am particularly good at the inspiring ones. But capturing the ugly shadow side, this is my personal nemesis. When I stumble upon the darker revelations, I will often not acknowledge, or worse, simply avoid writing about them. That stops with today’s post (and tomorrows, cause there is more). Here goes,

Bus drivers are mean. It took me several states to see the pattern and you need to know that I do not make this observation blithely. They are mean. Not the lovable curmudgeon Archie Bunker mean. This is the cruel, utterly disdainful, school yard bully mean. And it is not just some of them. By my count I have had roughly 35 different bus drivers as most days have required transfers that create the opportunity to experience two of these nightmares in one day. Of these, I can attest that about 5 have been a genuine delight. Another 10 (and I am being generous here) are simply no-nonsense, get the job done kind of drivers. But, if you are boarding a Greyhound bus today, by my calculations, you have a better that 50 percent chance of encountering one these little monsters.

(that was hard to write)

Allow me to be more specific. These are people who, from the moment of taking your ticket and throughout the ride, will handle each encounter with as much contempt as they can muster. I have seen passengers bullied for being confused, for their language skills, for not moving fast enough. I have watched as two young men were ‘put off’ the bus for a perceived disrespect. Any direction is given as an order and never, never a request.

(super hard to write)

Upon first observation, I was inclined to give the driver a pass. After all, dealing with an unruly clientele (you might recall our pot smoker from the first day) and a high felon to registered voter ratio, it could make a person cranky. But here’s the thing… after the initial incident, there was not one even remotely out of line passenger that I observed. Let me be clear. We are talking approximately 7280 miles resulting in over 146 total hours on the bus. Not one incident. In fact, it is fair to say, that the clientele on the Greyhound buses out-civilized any air travel experience that I have had.

So how did this happen?

It seems that historically bus drivers have always enjoyed the ability to put offenders ‘off the bus’. I suspect this was done as a response to infractions that were clear and tangible. Somewhere along the line, Greyhound altered their list of infractions to include any behavior that the driver deems disrespectful. And they were off. With no checks to add balance, a tone, a look, and as I discovered, quietly taking a cell phone call, were justifications for all manner of outrage. Absolute authority given to a people whose filters are preset to ‘offense’.

Why does this matter?

Because we have, as a group, silently allowed circumstances to justify uncivil behavior. The expectation of respectful resolution of conflict has been completely abdicated. We have sat by, in the name of safety, and not questioned all manner of unreasonable behavior. It is not okay. It is not okay.

(this was really hard to write)

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Denver, CO: Praying the Sandy away

There is a particular kind of helplessness we all feel during a national disaster. For those of us safely out of reach, reduced to spectator, we are suspended in a state of hope and fear.

Today I traveled further than planned as bus transit is being impacted by airline and train cancellations. I am heading home.

Tonight I am joining all of you in prayer.

(Dianne, please take care of yourself)

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Omaha NE: Migrations

There are rhythms to all things Greyhound. Things you can count on, signs you can read that become second nature. The most disquieting of these are the signs of migration.

The familiar sight of bins packed in a very specific way with wrapped bundles from linens to toys leave little question that the owners are on the move. Throughout the west and south, it is notable that there was not one bus that I observed that did not have at least one passenger or family in the state of migration.

But this morning stood out. I arrived to the gate and was greeted by a line of passengers, almost all of which had their entire lives arranged at their feet as they waited to board. It turns out that Tyson foods had reached out to border cities in Texas to recruit 20 permanent workers to their facility in Lincoln, Nebraska. With spouses, children and everything that they owned, they were making their way to a new life.

It was, without question, the most moving of all my rides to date. Selecting just one for this post was my biggest challenge.

Ramiro Betancourt was traveling with his wife Barbara. They are from Harlingen, Texas and have had a rough patch for the past 2 years. A veteran, Ramiro’s determination and candor took by breath away.

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Ramiro%20Betancourt.mp3" title="Ramiro Betancourt"]

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Des Moines, IA: Friends from abroad

I started out this morning with the expressed objective to find a Republican and record them.

It was only a few days into this trip when I realized that while my Greyhound community spans several demographics, it does not include our conservative brethren. With time, I became comfortable with this reality and decided to embrace and present it as it is. However, when I failed to emerge with any recordings from the rally yesterday, I re-doubled my efforts today.

But then I met Adam Shultz and Cassandra Shephard. Australian nationals, they have been traveling the world for four months, and will be here in the U.S. for six weeks for the purposes of volunteering in support of Obama/Biden 2012. Seriously. They have been traveling to key swing states and working rallies, knocking on doors, whatever the campaign needs. They are recent graduates, passionate and extremely well informed on world affairs. They demonstrate a level of commitment that would be admirable if limited only to their own country. But to bring their talents and enthusiasm to our country, our election… simply extraordinary.

These two young people stopped me dead in my tracks and today I am adding my word to our Mind Map. Hopeful. Absolutely hopeful.

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Adam%20and%20Cassandra.mp3" title="Adam and Cassandra"]

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Waukesha, WI: Rallies and friends

With the help of good friends, today I got the chance to experience this beautiful city of Milwaukee, eat some great food and attend a very enthusiastic local republican rally here is Waukesha, Wisconsin. Speakers included Lieutenant Governor Rebecca Kleefisch, Senator Ron Johnson, and Marco Rubio.

This was all made possible by my gracious hosts, Ray and Candy Arndt. Ray is an accomplished businessman having worked in high tech for many years and Candy is, well, a force of nature. She dedicates herself almost full time to organizing the local republican volunteers and she embodies the very best of public and community service.

As personal friends of Wisconsin Governor Scott Walker and his wife, they have seen close up the political turmoil of the last two years. Their dedication and hard work for their party is clear, but their loyalty and commitment are palpable. The recall election deeply divided this State and it was evident in my conversations with people in transit to the rally, and those I met there. Repeatedly, they shared stories (sadly, off mic) of lost friendships and strained families reflecting the conflicts of the public square in their personal relationships.

And here I spoke with Eddie Nelson. Eddie manages the duplex that he has remodeled and the bar at the Michigan Grill. He offers an alternative position on the state of the state in Wisconsin.

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Eddie%20Nelson.mp3" title="Eddie Nelson"]

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Milwaukee, WI: All’s well

I couldn’t resist. Maybe it was the picture of my favorite niece and nephew in their Detroit Tiger colors on this, the first night of the World Series. More likely, it was an interview that simply, elegantly erased any cynicism and grown up political frustration. Allie and RJ, thank you. You are so special and I love you dearly.

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Allie%20and%20RJ.mp3" title="Allie and RJ"]

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Farmington Hills, MI: Boys on the bus

It’s time for some observations. Day 18 and trends are emerging. For starters, I do not know where the Republicans are, but they are not on the bus. From the first day, and through the reddest of states, it has been a scramble for me to find conservatives to talk to. I share this with sincere sorrow and surprise. Yes, some of you might be uttering a collective ‘duh’, but this has truly been a revelation to me.

Also, you know that elusive ‘undecided’ voter… they are on the bus. While estimates indicate that only 1-3% of eligible voters have not made up their minds, my unofficial tally is closer to 30% of Greyhound riders are undecided. Listen up, campaigns… forget the ads, rallies, photo ops. Get on the bus. Really. The bus.

Today I am submitting the first intentional multi-person interview of this trip. Yesterday, for the first time, I found myself traveling on a nearly empty bus. There were less than a dozen people riding from Cleveland to Toledo and it was my good fortune to sitting with Bruce, Diante and Gaia. Bruce is an IT specialist in the banking industry, Diante a student and Gaia a nurse practitioner. We talked for almost 2 hours and only a few segments were recorded. While this created an editing nightmare, I hope that the result captures the sheer joy and magic that happens when we come together to discuss issues of the day. It is, at its essence, exactly why I love doing this.

(Gaia is first to speak and starts with his thoughts on Obamacare)

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Bruce%2C%20Diante%20and%20Gaia.mp3" title="The boys"]

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Toledo, OH: Debate Night

Friends and family,

Tonight I enjoyed a wonderful travel day, recorded two sets of interviews and got to visit with my cousin Tammy and her family. There are many stories to share and I promise to edit and start the process of coherent storytelling tomorrow. For now, I am enjoying the last debate of this election and reflecting just a bit.

With gratitude from the road,
Julie

Posted in Looking for America | 8 Comments

Pittsburgh, PA: Election fatigue

You only need to check the most recent words added to our Mind Map to understand that, with fifteen days to go, there is a malaise setting in. Yesterday morning was the physical and chronological half way mark of my trip.  Now as I head west, it is increasingly challenging to find a pulse.  Is it the rain? the region? the all night bus ride?

Shayne, Von J, Bobby Barnes…  I miss you.

I am reminded of Elie Wiesel’s famous quote ‘The opposite of love is not hate, it’s indifference.’.  But it is the entire quote that truly captures the encompassing nature of apathy.  The complete quote reads,

‘The opposite of love is not hate, it’s indifference. The opposite of art is not ugliness, it’s indifference. The opposite of faith is not heresy, it’s indifference. And the opposite of life is not death, it’s indifference.’

While I may be an eternal optimist, I believe this will pass.  In the interim, today I met Amanda Parrotte.  A teacher in a private school here in Pittsburgh, Amanda’s thoughtful consideration and unique perspective were a breath of fresh air.

[rtmp3 url="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108166614/Audio2012/Amanda%20Parrotte.mp3" title="Amanda Parrotte"]

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